It was truly fascinating to notice the fundamental similarity between Walter Benjamin’s culinary pieces and the analysis of folklore by M. M. Bakhtin (in his Rebelais and His World).
The latter, Bakhtin, suggests that the unorthodox combination of food, debauchery, gluttony, laughter, and sex in mediaeval festivities stood in opposition to the orderly and authoritarian ecclesiastic culture. The vulgar, obscene, display of food, violence, and sexual intercourse at public banquets – according to Bakhtin – served the “regenerative” purpose of showing the unity of Man with Nature; and of one person to the next. Official Church culture was based on strict hierarchies segregating and relegating individuals to strictly defined positions in the social order; this requires self-containment and individuation that is not fulfilled by people participating in any of the abovementioned activities. For instance, a person about to devour food does not isolate him or herself from the environment, but is, rather, about to engage in a mutual relationship with it.
If we look at the two pieces on food by W. Benjamin, he clearly identifies similar intuitions about the process of eating. Bakthin resonates in Benjamin’s description of gluttony: “Gourmandizing means above all else to devour one thing to the last crumb”
(Food, p. 358); and when he admits that grand and festive meals only know a public appearance
(Food Fair, p. 135). Although I am not sure, I wonder if the similarity to Bakhtin is interrupted in the
(to me) rather cryptic final passage in the
Food Fair essay where he describes “… the picture in which Robinson [Crusoe] gazes in horror at the traces left by cannibals”, and where he asks why people attending the Berlin Food Fair are deprived of the gratifying image of when “the mysterious serpent of the eating instinct bites its own tail”.
It is hard to disclose the meaning of this remark. My only guess is that Benjamin has in mind the one-sided display of food at the Berlin fair where the only thing presented is the accomplishment of mechanized food production. But, I don’t really know. It could also be that Benjamin means that an entire fair devoted to food, willy-nilly, will bear a glooming appearance by shocking viewers of how much of the world we are consuming for our own sheer sustenance. – If the former, Bakhtin is lost; if the latter, he is still with Benjamin.
-- Alexander
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